Tehra Brocade

Tehra Brocade (also known as Tehra Banarasi Brocade) is one of the most opulent and complex variations of handwoven silk textiles originating from Varanasi (Banaras), Uttar Pradesh-the historic heartland of Indian brocade weaving. Distinguished by its specialized triple-thread construct, Tehra Brocade represents the pinnacle of Banarasi craftsmanship, blending ancient Mughal-inspired design with exceptional structural complexity.

Weaving Technique & Craftsmanship
The word “Tehra” stems from teen (three) or tehra (three-fold), referring to the unique triple-thread or multi-layered weaving technique employed on traditional handlooms.

Unlike standard brocades that use a single or double warp/weft system to form patterns:

Triple-Thread Integration: Craftsmen weave three distinct threads (often varying combinations of fine silk yarn, spun silk, and metallic Zari) simultaneously or in close sequence.

Surface Relief: The extra-weft thread technique allows the artisan to float rich gold (Zari), silver (Kalaunji/Rupa), or colored silk threads over the base weave, creating an embossed, three-dimensional relief.

Intricate Workmanship: A single yard of Tehra Brocade can take weeks to complete on a traditional Jacquard or Drawloom (Jala system), requiring immense skill to ensure the dense metallic yarns do not warp the delicate silk base.